Me Very Made Asian May

Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month is the same month as MeMadeMay, and a pretty relaxed one this year for me. So Yay for a lot of new makes featuring Asian pattern designers!

 I'll be the first to say that I have multiple agenda when choosing a pattern -- cost, ease of fitting (including size inclusivity, and shorten lines because 5'2"), the potential for variations, whether i can use fabric I already have. All of these have led me away from buying patterns from brands found in IRL stores (in sewist lingo, the Big 4) and toward independent designers who deal mostly in PDF patterns. 

(all links go to the pattern pages.)

Friday Pattern Company Sport Shorts for daughter

Friday Pattern Company Sport Shorts for me

Glory Allan cargo pants (into shorts) for daughter

Muna&Broad Sculthorpe pants  colorblocked into chef pants -- featuring catstooth

Glory Allan cargo pants (into shorts) for son

Itch to Stitch Uvita top in Women of Star Wars print

Glory Allan reversible bucket hat

More Asian pattern designers and where to find them:

@handmademillenial -- Instagram

@gwenstella.made -- Instagram

wonderfulsews.com

Jess Dang -- YouTube 

Ora Lin -- Ko-Fi.com

Staystitch Pattern Company -- Etsy

LiEr -- ikatbag.com and Etsy

knitting patterns:  jessiemaed designs

bags: QTing, MikoCraft -- YouTube

This list, by geographical area: https://asiansewistcollective.com/api-shops/

Sewing up: Part 2 of the pull-on/peasant jumpsuit tutorial, with a special split-sleeves bonus mini-tutorial

AAAnd we are back, ready to put the cut-out pieces together. Go HERE for Part 1, the pattern draft and cutting. (Note that I used a print here, so it's easier to see right and wrong sides.)

To recap, you will have EITHER a front and back top, sleeves, and left and right pants and pockets, for a jumpsuit with a waist seam; OR a full body front and back, sleeves, and pockets, for a jumpsuit with a vertical center seam.

First, the pockets. 
Serge or finish all the edges of the pocket pieces. Press 1/2 inch (12 mm) on each straight side to the wrong side, then clip the corners to reduce bulk. Press the curved edge as well, clipping into the curve as necessary. Stitch down that curved edge, which is your pocket opening.

Pin the pockets into place on the pants pieces on the right side, then topstitch the straight edges, backstitching or lockstitching at the edges of the curved pocket opening where there will most likely be stress.

I think I may have matched the pattern too well? Hard to see the pocket on the upper left.

For a jumpsuit with a waist seam: 
Pin each pants piece right sides together and sew the inner leg seams front to back.

 Turn one leg right side out and put it inside the other leg to pin, then sew, the center seam from front to back.

Slide⟶ the right-side-out leg into the wrong-side-out one, lining up the raw edges. 

I sewed this seam with blue thread, hoping it would make it more visible...

 Finish that seam, then pull the one leg out of the other to finish the pants inner leg seam as one continuous serge. Press the serged seams flat to one side. 

Serge the neck edge of the front and back top pieces each sleeve piece if making regular sleeves. (If you are making split sleeves, don't do this. see note On split sleeves below, between the 🔵🔴🔵) Pin the front edge of each sleeve to the front top piece, right sides together. Sew, starting at the bottom of the arm and ending at the finished neck edge, and finish those seams. Do the same for the back edge of each sleeve and the back top. You will now have a cross shape with a hole in the middle. Press the finished edges of the neckline to the wrong side, first 1/4 inch (6mm) then again 1/2 inch (12mm). Edgestitch starting from a sleeve seam, leaving an opening to insert the elastic.

Fold in half ⤼

Fold the cross shape in half right sides together so the edges of the sleeves meet, and the back and front meet. Sew up the sides, starting at the lower edge and ending at the sleeve ends. Serge or finish those seams, then press them flat toward the back. Press the hem of the sleeves to the wrong side by 1/4 inch (6mm), then by 1/2 inch (12mm). Edgestitch the hem, leaving an opening to insert elastic if you are using it.

Join the top and pants: Have the top inside out and the pants right side out. Line up the center seams of the pants with the center marks of the top front and back edge so that the pants are upside down inside the top, right sides together. 

Pin and sew. Pull the top up so the whole thing is wrong side out. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch (5-6 mm), then press them open.

 

continue to the waistband below.

For a jumpsuit with a vertical center seam: 

Prepare the pockets as above, and sew them onto the body pieces where you marked -- 1 1/2 inch (3.5 cm) down from the waistband for a child, more for adults. 

Once you have attached the pockets, place the full body pieces right sides together and pin the front center seam. Sew and finish that seam. Do the same for the center back seam. Press them to one side. 

For regular sleeves, pin and sew the sleeve edges together, and finish those seams. (See note on split sleeves between the 🔵🔴🔵) Turn one sleeve right side out and align its edges with the armhole edge of the body piece. Pin, paying attention that the front edges and back edges match up. Start at the bottom of the armhole and sew toward the neckline on the front, then start again from the bottom sleeve seam to the back neckline. Do the same for the other sleeve, then finish both armhole seams. Press the seams toward the back, then press the hem edge of each sleeve first 1/4 inch (6mm), then 1/2 inch (12mm) to the wrong side. Edgestitch, leaving an opening to insert the elastic if you want to gather that edge. 

Serge all the way around the neckline to stabilize it, then press 1/4 inch, then 1/2 inch to the wrong side as well. Edgestitch the neckline, leaving an opening to insert the elastic.

Pin the inseam of each leg, then sew from the center down each to the bottom. Finish as one continuous serge, then press the seam toward the back. 

🔵🔴🔵

*On split sleeves: Mark the joins, 

I marked 1-inch (2.5 cm) lengths separating 3 1/2 inch (9 cm) "splits"... do as few or many as you see fit, making sure top and bottom are sewn together at least 1 1/4 inch (3.25 cm).

pin and sew. Press the edges to the wrong side 1/4 inch (6mm), 

then carefully edgestitch all along the edge. You'll have to bunch it up somewhat under the presser foot to get to the center, like this: 

For jumpsuit with a waist seam, sew the sides of the top together before attaching the completed split sleeves; for one with a center seam, attach the sleeves as given, starting at the bottom of the armhole. 

 🔵🔴🔵

 For both ways:
Prepare and attach the internal waistband: Press 1/2 inch (12mm) of each long edge of the waistband strip to the wrong side. Pin carefully to the marks on the wrong side of the jumpsuit, following the angle or curve of the waist markings.

Edgestitch the top edge, then the bottom edge, leaving an opening to insert the elastic.

Insert all the elastics with a bodkin or safety pin. I do the neckline, then the waist, then the sleeves. Check for fit before cutting and securing the elastics by overlapping the ends and sewing an X (If your machine has a crosshatch stitch, it works well to make a secure join). Close the openings stitc hand or machine.
Lastly, hem the pant legs: fold over 1/2 inch (12 mm), then as much as necessary to get the right length. Edgestitch or blind hem.

That's it, you're done! Test it out, (trampoline or a grassy hill optional) jump!

Mini Minty Moto!

Munting Moto? Actually not that small, it is a constant surprise how big they are getting, every day before my eyes. And not really mint, more like a seafoam green. Upholstery suede from Mood Home.

Froo designed it from a few Pinterest pictures. I suggested the lavender/lilac zipper tapes (sz 5 and 3 brass from Wawak) and lining (poly broadcloth from stash, I think Joann ca 2014?). I also wanted to do the princess seams -- are they still called that if the garment is the polar opposite of princessy? I have yet to get a good photo of the yoked back. Originally based on the Oliver + s Schooldays coat, with later input from Burda 183... but not really any of those because I shaped the pieces to really take advantage of those seams. Completely redrafted the sleeves after the first fitting. All in all, a very good fall-weight jacket that I might make again in grey ultraseuede with zips on the sleeves and inside pockets for the other kid. 

Regular clothes are the best costumes.

Meet Sans from Undertale and DC's Catwoman. Yes, those are a hoodie, shirt and leggings made from cotton interlock. Yes, i did think about their costumes ahead of time, and so did they.
A catsuit? Totally makeable but not not very comfortable to spend a whole day at school in.
Big hard helmet-type mask? Again, makeable but not practical either. So instead, regular, can-wear-them-all-the-time clothes with just a bit of detail, and some iconic accessories.
A zip-up hoodie with pockets and fuzzy edging (it's the same stuff from Abomasnow two Halloweens ago), is by far the most recognizable thing about Sans' getup. I realize now that it could be longer -- must get longer zipper and replace it for another two or three years' wear!
The hat/mask is a tube of white cotton knit, closed at the top. I had him put it on to mark the placement of eyes and nose. Very thin nylon/cotton knit patches were basted in place, then i cut out the holes with tiny snips before hand-stitching around the edges -- voila, a comfortable, lightweight mask that he can breathe and see out of (in good light!) That's him putting on the rest of the details (Sans' smile especially) with a permanent marker.
She gets a mock-neck t-shirt with some cats'-eye gems, and some leggings, in French terry. Cat ears, made from paper hot-glued to a headband, are all she needs. She decided she needed a glittery lariat.

summer dancewear

Some new dancewear for the warmer months -- 

one based on this Ikatbag tutorial for a racerback dress grafted onto the tweaked shortard bottom; 

one based on Jalie 3138, with a high neckline, decorated with a fun rhinestone g-clef; 

one black stretch pleather and cotton lycra (lesson learned: stretch pleather is not as stretchy as other stretch fabrics...but it does look cool and edgy!)

  and one cerulean stretch velvet Jalie 3241, with some rhinestone flowers from Top Trimming (the dance shorts are scraps of brown stretch pleather: I added a Oliver + S Nature Walk waistband on shortened Playtime leggings to get the stretch running in the correct direction.) 

and the last one is a bit of a cheat for colder weather -- does anyone remember the Bitten line Sarah Jessica Parker did for H&M  many years ago? This tuxedo-ruffled top ceased to fit me awhile ago, but it made for an almost instant hack to re-cut the shape as for the snapless shortard, retaining that cute button front.

Heirloom sewing and perfect weekends

The time of sewing reckoning had arrived! I had been thinking about this time for over a year, nebulous plans and Pinterest-gazing giving way to actual sketches and ideas on her part, and fairly courageous fabric choices on mine.

I decided on princess seams and a full circle skirt, with long sheer sleeves. The main fabric is silk dupioni, fully lined with soft, soft cotton voile. I used regular serged and sewn seams on the voile on the wrong side, (which I put against the outer silk so it would be nothing but comfy against her skin.) and French seams on the dupioni to ward off fraying. 

I also got some silk organza and had planned to do the embroidery myself, but found some leftover embroidered polyester organza that was enough for both sleeves and veil; I used the actual scallop on the bottom edge, and created a new shallow scallop edge all around the veil piece. 

The final result: comfy, unique, luxurious and special.

refashioning and the joy of renewal...

It's remarkably springlike outside today, and this post is a feeble attempt to infuse new life into my poor neglected blog. The truth is, there has been some stuff going but not really a lot to blog about... on the surface it's been a lot of the same with just variations. Spring, renewal of old things, revitalizing things that were dormant... AH! a common thread!

Some old clothes have cute details that I can't let go of, but that obviously will never fit this figure (or lack thereof); sometimes the same details are too twee simply because these were clothes I had when I was 20. Usually it's both. 

This cotton polo has a pretty embroidered collar and extended placket; it was an easy fix to re-cut it into an A-line tunic dress. I reused the sleeves'original hems (which were a nice length instead of an awkward cap on K). 

 

A cool dragon print is inexplicable in a knee-length skirt (...it was the 90's?) but made a nice raglan. Stretch velvet binding adds texture.

Beautiful black-on-white eyelet, but doesn't go over my hips and has odd coffee stains. 

Kept the original lace insert and hem, re-cut into a Apple-picking dress; I even reused the original lining. The placket (with pretty black flower snaps!)is just a single one because I didn't have enough width for a double-breasted one. Black cotton voile is the perfect match in texture for the tie and sleeves and adds a bit of old-world monochrome-ness.

Black-and-white in a white-on-white room... 

There are some pants that are going to get re-made into uniform sweats for P, and DH tossed some brand-new underwear he got for Christmas -- I rescued them with plans for dance pants. Basically, rip out the interior back-to-front and leg seams, get rid of the strangeness at the crotch (worn-out in one case, extra fabric in the other) and home free. I think I can even re-use the original waistbands.

  

Another trip 'round the bend...!

aka ballet performance sewing time again!
This year it was Journey to Neverland, an original Peter Pan ballet basically, not the famous one. I was supposed to make costumes for Peter, Hook, Tink,the three London girls, seven Indians (Tigerlily and six ensemble) and fifteen pirates.

Nightgowns, based on a vintage pattern found on Pinterest... Charmeuse and lace, fully lined in polyester habutai; three colors of the same fabrics.

Vests and skirts for Indians and Tigerlily in fawn suedecloth. Circle skirts for the ensemble, fringed tutu (and lots more jewels) for Tigerlily. Simplified version of an old vest pattern.

Tinkerbell, in lime green suedecloth. Side zip, sequin lace appliques. Actually the beauty of suedecloth is that you can use hot glue! I drafted this one myself, with a one-shoulder bodice and short circle skirt.

Pirates -- red/gold metallic brocade vests, baggy below-the-knee pants in charmeuse... simplified versions of  a Burda pattern I already had (and used several years ago for silver rapper pants!)

As things happen, they decided to order Hook and Peter's costumes instead so now I have to think of a use for red brocade and green suedecloth... I was sad but realized that it was a good thing! I would have overthought them and stressed myself out. But it was fun to imagine and plan.

Ironic that I never work on my own dd's costume except for some appliques last year... but have some pretty pix anyway!

The pirate outfits modelled... if you can call it that.

And here they are, worn! Tigerlily, Joan, Tinkerbell,Wendy, Michelle... and Maria and Franny.

Aaaand another year done! Wonder what they'll do next time....